28 Feb, 2014

Vionnet's architecture inspired collection

fashion — Posted by bluezone @ 06:59

Vionnet's Fall/Winter 14 line mixed architecture with nature in Paris last night.

Vionnet's Fall/Winter 14 line was a varied affair at Paris Fashion Week last night.

Backstage, designer Goga Ashkenazi explained she was inspired by both architecture and nature. This was apparent in the structure of many of the pieces, such as long-line pleats in skirts and layered strapless tops with sharp edges. The softer side was seen via flower appliqués, with 20,000 fresh tulips decorating the tent where the line was presented.

The clothes were a mixed bag. The first pieces were made from felt, with some more successful than others. A grey, green and white midi-dress was a slim A-line and included thick pleats, although the inclusion of a floral motif on the front stomach section took away from the effect a little.

Similarly, while a flared skirt which hit mid-calf looked wearable thanks to its two shades of grey, not many would pair it with the baby blue baggy knit the model wore.

Green was one of the biggest trends of the collection and was seen in many of the pieces. After the felt start padded jackets became a key theme, worn with knitted pants. There were also draped and bias-cut dresses at the end of the show, which were well executed.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua presented his debut line for Rochas in Paris yesterday and went for a toned-down and wearable punk aesthetic.

One of the biggest looks was embellishment, with shirts, coats, peplums and skirts strewn with crystals. Blown up proportions and layering were also key, with the collection all about excess and some of the looks working better than others.

To start there was a beige peplum vest worn with a white skirt with tassel detail along the side hem. Next things were supersized, with a round-shouldered white coat paired over a nude dress in a very wearable look.

Perhaps more over-the-top was a black, embellished and sparkling peplum top worn with a loose burgundy peplum skirt with tassled side hem. The model also had deep red gloves on, again covered with tassels - which were also on the pointed court shoes.

Gareth Pugh stuck to what he knows best for Fall/Winter 14 - overblown shapes which while possibly not wearable, look fantastic on the runway. First up a model was all in white ruffles, with the giant skirt jutting out from the hips to below the knee. The rest of the legs were covered in high boots, with a giant white wrap and hat reminiscent of that which Pharrell Williams has been rocking of late sitting on her head.

The only other colour used was white, with funnel necks and layering the key elements of the collection.

Today sees Carven, Balmain, Nina Ricci and Lanvin presenting in Paris.


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